4.21.2010

Big in China! ブログ移動のお知らせ



China has always been fairly intimidated by us and the power we command with the Chinese people. Accordingly, it comes with little surprise that our blog cannot be accessed in China, however, this means our friends there cannot keep up with our adventures. For this reason, we have moved to benandkaori.wordpress.com. There is some talk that the blockage has to do with a disagreement on privacy between Google and China, however, such rumors obviously ignore how important we are and should be regarded as lies.

中国政府とグーグルが揉めっているせい、中国では本ブログを閲覧できない状況になりましたので、benandkaori.wordpress.comへと移動させていただきます。ご迷惑をおかけしますが、これからもよろしくお願いします。

4.06.2010

Cameras don't swim, even if you demand they do so.

Went swimming with my camera in the beautiful Caribbean off Omoa, Honduras...now I am waiting for a new camera to arrive here to us in Tegucigalpa. Until then...we are alive, just not posting pictures.

3.28.2010

BOATS!! Rio Dulce to Honduras

After a three hour bus ride coming back south from Flores, we caught a boat from just outside the Castillo, which was built, like so many of the castles in Central America, to keep English Pirates from raiding inland stores.

We passed through several small inlets to let people off and on the boat, which is the only line of transportation between the Guatemala and Livingston, even though Livingston is not an island.


Along the way, I picked up a coconut and enjoyed not only the lucious juice, but the delicous and incredibly difficult-to-eat meat. It's quite tender when fresh!

After 2hours in transit, we arrived in Livingston, which is home of the majority of the Garifuna people (called Black Caribbeans by the Spanish). It's a strange little town, struggling with the changes that the tourist trade is bringing to their society. We saw signs deeper in some of the barrios posted by the government encouraging the locals to be "the tourist's friend". This painting I thought was quite interesting, though I'm not sure if it is a comment on the tourist industry.

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The next morning, we rose before everyone to catch this boat to Puerto Barrios, taking us an hour and a half from Honduras.

We got there at 4:45, because we believed it was leaving at 5am, but when we arrived, the crew was still asleep on the boat's benchs. We waited till 6:30. There was a whole mix of people on the boat, most of them taking merchandise to sell in the much larger town across the bay.

Kaori kicked her feet up and fell asleep early into the voyage. Don't believe it's because she was tired from the early departure...she sleeps on anything that moves. ;-)

After arriving in Puerto Barrios, we were soon discovered by a bus looking for people travelling to Honduras. We arrived at the border in an hour, where the copilot took our passports and did the entry paperwork for us in this shack! What service!

In another 30 minutes we were in Honduras! Brrrraaah-haaaa!

3.25.2010

Tikal!

Kaori and I made our way on a really shady overnight bus from Guatemala City to Santa Elena, where we defied tourist hustlers and got a ticket to Tikal for $3.10 as opposed to $10. We arrived, checked into the campsite and took a nap to catch up on all the sleep we had missed on the bus. Besides, if you enter the park after 3pm, your next day is free!!

We found our way into the park and climbed up what temples we could (Tikal is one of the few major sites that still allows you to do this). The door on Temple V above was about a foot, or so, taller than me, just to give you an idea of proportions.

From Temple IV, we watched the shadow of the tallest temple in the complex stretch across the jungle as the sun set.

The next morning, we woke up at the crack of dawn to the roar of howler monkies. Listen to the sheer volume as I approach one group near some of the ruins. The quiet as soon as they catch sight of me.

The Jaguar Temple above.

The tree below is full of air plants that make it look all fuzy and nice.




3.22.2010

Semana Santa in Antigua

When we woke up this morning we headed down to the central park just in time to catch a beauty pagent in process. Feast your eyes on this one guys!! This early 90s Sentra is quite a catch.
Down a few alleys, we found the alfombras, which are pictures made of sawdust, flowers, pine needles, and all manner of fruits. Some locals informed me that these “carpets” are laid to soften the path Christ must walk bearing the cross.


Early on this last Sunday before Easter, the streets of Antigua were already filled with people busy preparing for largest procession of the Semana Santa festivities. People were everywhere. About half of them were dressed in purple robes, marking them as members of the procession.

Following the Roman warriors were portraits detailing the last days of Christ.

The Christ is carried through the town on a float by more than 100 men at a time, and when negotiating the tight corners of the narrow Antiguan streets the float and its carriers overflow onto the sidewalks. I could literally reach out and touch it.


Following Christ was the mornful virgin Mary.


The procession continued on until 2am...all were tired.

The holy mother finally finds her way back to the church whence she came.

3.20.2010

Jesus Towels and Miraculous Meetings in Santiago Atitlan

Hoping on a boat from Panajachel, Kaori and I went to a nearby town sandwiched between three volcanoes.


We had been told that this town was the least touristed, so that’s where we headed. After pushing our way through the walls of tuk-tuk drivers crying “Maximon!! Maximon!!!”, offering to take us to see the current home housing the local deity, we made our way up to the local market place.

There we miraculously ran into a couple that is traveling Central America by bicycle. We met them in San Cristobal and knew that they were in Guatemala, but what are the odds?! I think that it’s divine power chanelled through the Last Supper towel found in the local market that is due thanks.

3.19.2010

Laguna Chikabal, Chichicastenango

The day before my birthday, after coming back from Chichicastenango, when my body temperature shot up from normal to 40 C in about one hour and the smell of my fountain-like diarrhea filled our hostel, I knew it was time to go to the hospital. SO, now that my intestines have recovered from the rather intense infection that put me in the hospital where Kaori recovered from pneumonia, it´s time to talk about the fabulous two days that helped the bugs in my gut put me in the hospital.

On Saturday, we went to Laguna Chikabal, a lake in a volcanic crater and sacred site for the Mayans at some 3,000 feet about sea level. Bare branches and flowers decorated the lake shore creating little altars.

Mayan families gathered around to fish and enjoy the cool weather in the crater. We enjoyed our lunch here in the shade of the trees.

(The owner of Taka-House, Taka-san. He likes Cheetos.)
The wailing of women in a gathering of Apostalic Protestant Mayans on the opposite shore reminded me of a similar gathering Kaori and I had participated in at a local church the night before. I was again at once surprised and perplexed at how mixed the two cultures, the original Mayan and the colonial Christian, had become.


Chichicastenango
The next day, at one of the major tourist spots of Guatemala, Chichicastenango, we saw multitudes of colorful Mayan clothing and a special dance that they perform over the Easter week celebrations depicting a Spanish bullfighter.

From masks of what look like very caniving Spaniards, to the local deity, Maximon (see the post on Zunil), the strange acceptance of the Spanish culture by the locals is if anything perplexing.

On a nearby hill, religious ceremonies performed by the Mayans now revolve around a crucifix, though the content of the ceremony is far from Christian. The crawling on the ground that we saw here was identical to that in the local Catholic Church, a clear indication of the merger of the two cultures.

Mayans also puff on cigars (kids included) as a method of cleansing. During the thrity minutes we were on the hill, this family of three smoked around 10 cigars. Why not just burn some insence?