3.12.2010

Robin-hooded Encapuchados of Guatemala

The first time I saw Encapuchados, or "the hooded" in English, as nearly bumped into them as I rounded a corner in downtown Quetzaltenango, I thought I was about to be robbed. But they walked by, with only their eyes showing through their dark cloaks. I later found out that the Encapuchados are college student vigilantes, Robinhood types, who "collect donations" with big sticks as a threat for non-payment. These donations are collected for poor people who need help, medically, economically, or otherwise, but can't access the help they need. They stop traffic, collecting from buses and cars alike, and even charge local businesses and then give them reciepts that they post in their windows to show they have "paid their dues". McDonalds has never paid the dues, and has accordingly been painted black with motor oil several times. Other establishments have met the same fate...most just pay.

We were intrigued, and when Sindy, the college student who was boarding at my homestay, offered to introduce us to her friend who is a member, we jumped at the chance to learn more.

At the college, there were all maner of "revolutionary" paintings adorning nearly every wall of the University. It reminded me how recently Guatemala had recovered from intercene warfare, and how fresh the ideas are in the mind of the students. Portraits of "El Che", who came to help Guatemala with their revolution, and is universally loved, were on nearly every building. Equally prevalent were painting decrying present government corruption.

When we arrived at the headquarters of one branch of the Encapuchados, we were questioned through a small window in a large metal door. The interogator then closed the window to recieve permission for entry, and a few moments later the door opened and we were led to a small room where we were told to sit and wait. Pictures of "martyrs" and various political propoganda lined the walls.

Our hosts, who remained cloaked for the duration of our meeting, were very friendly and explained that Encapuchados exist to defend those who have no defense. Poor people with grievances, cannot approach the police for fear of repurcussions. Although medical care is free to all, including foreigners, in Guatemala, often procedures are not covered. Encapuchados, they explained, put their saftey on the line in collecting money--one of our hosts had had a gun stuck to his head more than once by a disgruntled citizen--and in confronting the local police as the voice of the voiceless. They often have parties where they charge and entrance fee and require canned foods and/or dry rice and beans, which will be delivered to the hungry.
(The pink color is for a female group, though females in other groups are not distinguished by color.)
Certainly, not all citizens are pleased with the Encapuchados. Some claim that the money they collect is only used to fund their drinking. However, when they oiled the delinquent McDonalds, Sindy told me that they were surrounded by locals who believed in their cause, cheering them on. The hosts' parents both were aware of and supported their son/daughter's participation.

We bought two T-shirts, thanked our hosts and were on our way.

Muchas Gracias, Sindy!

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